The purpose of this article is to clarify common questions and often simple, but that may be too challenging for those who are beginners in photography.
Just by having a photography site, read daily with hundreds of comments with questions, in your most hobbyists, with similar difficulties, and there is an expectation on the answers that may not always be met.
We all know that for a photo come out perfect, Yes, the perfect must be enclosed in quotation marks, as the criterion when we’re talking about something artistic, can range from simply point of view. Well, for this photo is acceptable minimante, we need an equation to work very well:
LIGHT + CAMERA + PHOTOGRAPHER + INSPIRATION
The domain of these four elements can vary, you might not have the best of the 4, but certainly for a satisfactory result, you will need to supplement, at least, what is missing. Here I will address thecameraelement, because it is what I ask, so I wrote a book with more than 80 pages explaining simple and objective manner how to choose a camera, the “Nikon or Canon? Professional or Semipro camera? Learn how to Decide Yourself!”, which leads us to understand that there is so much more we need to know when choosing a camera, of which only the value according to BestituDE.
Get moving emails, I can totally relate, because it is clear the difficulty that the photographer is having to make the pictures, some are almost desperate and many end with the question: which camera I buy then?
If someone you don’t know to send you an email asking which car to buy, taking into consideration that the person still doesn’t run, you’ll probably find madness, you need many more data to be able to help. Now imagine, if you wonder what speed should use to drive on the street, when to slow down or turn the curve, or where these controls in the car? The same would be respond which aperture, ISO speed is necessary to make the photos.
The good news is that even if it’s not possible to say exactly how you must drive, there are several factors that can help you, and, to solve specific problems when the limitation is your camera! Come on?
1. even with low Iso the pictures come out with Noise
The ISO is one of the three parameters of the triangle of exposure (Aperture x speed and ISO) and your job is to increase the amount of light through the sensitivity of the sensor, which can generate unwanted noise, at least most of the time.
But what is noise?
The image of our cameras is formed by several pixels, like thousands of little dots that together they did our photos appear. It turns out that often the information passed on by the sensor come incomplete in areas of low light, that is, the pixels are unable to receive any information. The result are flaws that need to be filled so that the image doesn’t have, literally, “holes”. The processor is programmed to fill such gaps with an approximate value to the pixels. As the value doesn’t fit exactly with the information that should be there, the result are points of different colors, i.e. the noise.
Even if you only shoot in automatic mode, your camera will still be using the ISO to expose correctly the scene, and particularly in these cases, you can help you achieve better results simply coming closer to a light source.
The hint seems too simple, trust me, many times we get so focused on photo and frustrated with our camera, we have forgotten that we can improve the scene, how to get closer to a window, or add an artificial light source near your reason, a lamp, a lantern, anything that helps you to use less.
If you are already shooting in Manual mode, as always, will be in addition to full control of their results, more possibilities for adjustments as these two.
- Open your camera diaphragm, i.e. increase the opening using f-numbers small as 5 f (which is usually the biggest opening of the lenses usually come in Kits of cameras, like the 18-55 mm).
- If possible, decrease the shutter speed, preferably in pictures that don’t have moves that can blur.
- the photos come out too dark
We know that the diaphragm aperture (f-number) is limited to lens that we’re using, the smaller the f-number such as f 2.8, f 2.0, the more light we have, of course, that’s an offshoot, the depth of field is directly linked to this opening, I wrote an article on my site about the depth of field that can help you understand it better.
So the more clear the lens for (large apertures-f small numbers), the more light we have in our photos and greater chances of not having photos underexposed.
Of course, here we can also make use of the previous tips, how to decrease the speed, increase the ISO, increase the light source and even use the Flash.
The important thing here is to discover the reasons for our picture be coming out dark. When even configuring the most your photometry (x and ISO speed), the picture comes out dark, we need to help our camera, because it is very likely that the limitation be it and in this case we have to increase the light source.
If your equipment is a good chance that even with a camera input, she responds well to higher ISOS, to figure that out, just to do tests, can be in your home, preferably in the evening.
The first way to test when it begins to appear in our pictures, noise is making adjustments in Manual mode to properly fotometrar the scene, and then increasing the ISO progressively, taking several pictures with increasing ISOS, remembering that the photos need to be minimally fotometradas. Then increase the 100% image preview in your LCD and see from which ISO number your photos cannot be considered acceptable.
If the Manual still is not your beach, you can, in the same environment, make a picture in auto mode (without flash), then copy the EXIF photo data and play them in manual mode.
If you are not familiar with the term Exif, it’s a feature created by JEIDA (Japan Electronic Industries Development Association). His name is short for Exchangeable image file format, and are data generated by most cameras. To make an image, the exif writes some technical information about the photo. Can be registered data as date and time, amount of pixels used, shutter speed, Aperture, zoom, ISO, camera used, focal length, citing some examples. This information embedded in the image will depend on the settings of your camera, and can be extremely useful for your learning! If you still don’t know how to use this feature, here ‘s an article that will help you.
And we still have the possibility of placing the camera in the Programmed Mode (P), where it will automatically configure the speed and openness, and we will have only the ISO to change, which is exactly what we are seeking.
Another way we can help our equipment is photographing in Raw, which allows us to make this light compensation without any loss of quality. If you have not yet embraced this format, enjoy to study ithere, I guarantee you will increase, and its possibilities for great results.
In short: we have 5 ways to get clearer pictures:
- Increasing the opening-the consequence are smaller fields depths, which can generate in some situations, difficult to focus.
- Decreasing the speed – the consequence is the risk of blurring the issue, the ideal is to slow down enough to be able to shoot without shaky (like 1/60 speeds or 1/30 if you have a steady hand), or use a tripod for scenes that don’t have anything in motion.
- Increasing the ISO – the consequence are the possible noise that most of the time are unwanted. To make the tests suggested.
- Using a natural or artificial Light source such as flash-the result is photos with light very hard, to improve it, try using diffusers.
- Photographing in Raw – the result is that we need larger memory cards and learn remotely editing that file type.
As you’ve seen, all the options can bring some kind of problem, the important thing is you evaluate which is the smaller, for the scene you are photographing at that moment.
- The pictures come out Blurred (Blurred)
Sometimes, even using a shutter speed considered safe, our pictures come out blurred or blurry, and in these cases we need to draw on some tricks:
- If you have, activate the stabilizer-When photographed with large focal lengths (with lots of zoom lenses), the cameras need to be completely stabilized. And so, some cameras have the stabilizer on your body, such as Sony and Pentax. Already the Canon and Nikon have some lenses with stabilizers, they come with the initials IS (Canon) and VR (Nikon) and as you have already deduced, serve to stabilize the image and prevent smudging.
- Hold the camera correctly. Yes, your posture can be crucial to have a picture and focus! See herehow to achieve this.
- You can also use a remote shutter release, or use the timer on the camera (usually 2 or 10 seconds), so, in situations that are using a lot of zoom or low speeds (1/15, 1/8, or less), you do not need to press the shutter button while avoiding unwanted blur.
- your camera is not Full Frame
Put this item because I do not have a Full Frame camera cannot be considered a limitation to your photos.
The cameras are divided, mainly, by the size of its sensors. There are sensors of various sizes, with the base size is 35 mm. Cameras that have the basic 35 mm sensor size, are called full frame and, I don’t know if you remember, is the same size of those rolls of film. Sensors with size smaller than the base, are referred to as APS-C and the cameras that have this sensor, are also known as “cropadas” cameras. Here you can read a full article where I explain the differences between the factors.
Another Division, and there is much more than marketing technique, is that the cameras are cropadas divided into input cameras and semi-professionals, and are most in the audience that came with my site.
The Full Frames are better, it is undisputed, have larger, more megapixel sensors, wide-angle lenses for less available, less depth of field in any opening (which facilitates creative blurs), are more durable, more resistant and … for professionals!
If you decide to run drive professionally, you need a race car, will have no chance of victory with a stroller, but to walk on the street, to meet most of your daily commitments, taking you from point A to point B, you can perfectly rely on a stroller, if simpler (camera) or more complete (semipro camera) , will depend exclusively on your need, since both so able to function.
You only need to take into account the real need of some features, which sometimes is crucial to a good result, but often simply represents a comfort in time to photograph.
Here are some examples:
- Wi-Fi Connectivity
- Built-in Flash
- Shoe (for an external flash)
- Touch screen
- Articulated screen
- Dual memory card slots
- Image stabilization (in the camera or on the lens)
- RAW file support (gives you more control in pós-processamentos)
- Video capabilities (HD, 4 k, etc.)
- Support for external microphone
- High speed shooting (frames per second)
- Minimum focusing distance or the macro mode
- Shooting modes (for creative effects)
- The camera’s sealing
- Battery life
It’s easy to see that many items will not prevent that picture amazing you knowing using the equation from the start “LIGHT + camera + PHOTOGRAPHER + INSPIRATION“, will be able to do, even your camera not being, perhaps, still a Full Frame.
- Nikon D3200
- Nikon D3300
- Canon EOS 100 d (Rebel SL1)
- Canon EOS 700 d (Rebel T5i)
- Canon EOS 1100 d (Rebel T3)
- Canon EOS 600 d (Rebel T3i)
- Canon EOS 1200 d (Rebel T5)
- Nikon D5100
- Nikon D5200
- Nikon D5300
- Canon 50 d
- Canon 60 d
- Canon 70 d
- Canon 7 d
- 7 d Mark II
- Nikon D7000
- Nikon D7100
- Nikon D7200
- Canon 1DX
- Canon 5 d (Mark I, II, III and IV)
- Canon 6 d
- Nikon D4S
- Nikon D610
- Nikon D650
- Nikon D750
- Nikon D800
- your camera has a few focus points
You know when you press your shutter button halfway (which is needed to fotometrar a picture, i.e. for the camera to measure light and solve it in order to get out the correct amount of light), and a few red dots appear in your viewfinder, usually followed by a beep? They are the focal points of your camera, can also appear on your LCD screen, if you do not have the habit of showing by the viewfinder.Remembering that they may still be larger squares or turn green or red, instead of it depends on the camera.
And you’ve probably heard that, that some models of cameras have 39 focus points, others have 20, 15, 9. There are many models, and a preoccupation with it.
How many more points of focus, more area your camera is able toread and focus. But sometimes it’s not so much the amount that will be crucial to an accurate focus and yes the quality. It’s more important you know your possibilities and use them in the best possible way. But even with the quality of their focus points or the amount of them are not sufficient for a good result, maybe it’s because you let your camera automatically decide where would be the best focus.
My tip is that you switch to the manual area mode and choose a point as central, single or flexible, so you can have more field where you really want your picture to stay focused.
I have written an article here where I explain step by step this setting, you can check here.
6. your camera has a few Megapixels
We know that the greatest importance of Megapixels it’s time to print a photo in big size (larger than the usual 10x15cm) or the need to approach the matter by cutting the photo in post-production.
If your camera doesn’t have a ridiculous amount of megapixel, even remotely means that she is not able to have incredible results.
Maybe you will have a greater need to have a zoom lens, or still have the habit, more than healthy, to get close to the subject you want to photograph.
Know fotometrar correctly, use the white balance, choosing the best AF area mode, compose and frame, all of this is far more important and crucial to a striking photo than just having many megapixels.
Of course, our perception is based on the experience that we live, all items I selected bother me, and when I started in photography, but never hinder me to do the photos I wanted or needed.
It is very important on the limitations, stop and think, imagine, create, investigate, ask, change the way you see, have a plan B, C, D.
Don’t be lulled into which only the best camera can allow you the best pictures, I’m very proud to participate in the training of hundreds of thousands of novice photographers with my books on camera and photometry, beyond my workshops and learn daily that the biggest limitation is in our way of thinking.
Soon I’ll be launching my Online course-professional photography for amateurs, and if you’re a beginner and want to learn more, I invite you to subscribe to our newsletter to stay on top of all the news and articles.
If this article was helpful or interesting to you, share it, I’m sure your friend will also be for some.
Thank you very much, good pictures and see you soon!
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